Eating in Copenhagen: Geranium
Nothing in Scandinavia is cheap, especially and most certainly not food. But that did not stop Ravenous and his partner in crime from dining on some of Copenhagen’s finest food, from sleek Nordic cocktail bars, to the infamous open sandwiches, Danish butter creations and of course some Michelin starred institutes.
This first post on Geranium, marks one of my favourite meals of 2014 so far, that is against the likes of Septime (Paris), Brae (regional Victoria) and Pakta (Barcelona – yet to be posted). Whilst I was in some respects disappointed we could not snare a table at Noma whilst in Copenhagen, I was anything but disheartened as we progressed through each stage of this beautiful food chronicle.
Crispy grains from Kornly
Pear & lemon verbena.
Milk, fermented juice from carrot and sea buckthorn
Jerusalem artichoke, rye & walnut
Dried flowers & dried apples
“Chared” potatoe” & lightly smoked sheep milk butter
Grilled green asparagus soup & egg yolk in vinegar
Celeriac with seaweed powder, skyr & fishroe
Oyster, fish skin & fermented cabbage
Jellied ham, tomato water & sorrel flowers
“Dillstone“, mackerel, horseradish, granita from pickled cucumber
Bread with emmer & spelt
Onions, chamomile & melted hay cheese
Scallop in juniper aroma with pickled pine, berries & flowers
Grilled tongue of veal, red leaves & lingon berries
“Forest floor in May”, wood sorrel, beech leaves & woodruff
Sheep milk yoghurt, dried red sorrel & beetroots branches
Green egg with pine
Black currant bonbon with liquorice
2011 Scharzhof Riesling, Egon Muller, Mosel
Ingrid Marie Apple & Chamomile
2011 Meursault, Philippe Pacalet, Bourgogne
2008 Quinta Sardonia, Peter Sisseck, Castilla y Leon
2012 Riesling Auslese, Von der Lay, Weingut Trossen, Mosel
Rating: Divine. The menu created by Chef Rasmus Kofoed is one of modern Nordic cuisine, focussing its expressions on the Danish terroir and seasonality. The painstaking artistry, subtle deception, depth of flavour and balance, with clean expressions of produce makes for an exquisite and impeccable experience deserving of its world acclamations.
For only a transient sensory experience (albeit amazing) there was a painstaking amount of work required to produce the edible grains, twigs and black ash; or the paper thin carrot globe that fills your palate with fragrant jelly, light foam and crunch. There is an element of deception and theatre – with the vinegar infused egg yolk hidden by a foam of grilled green asparagus juice; and the savoury jellied ham camouflaged below a light floral consommé.
One of my favourite courses lies with the “dillstone” – these perfectly spherical green balls of mackerel had an incredible depth of unctuousness and oceanic comfort. And there is no doubt the produce-driven theme shines right through, but particularly evident from the juniper smoked scallop and sous vide veal tongue that hardly needed any fletcherising.
Where: Per Henrik Lings Allé 4, 8. DK-2100 Copenhagen
When: Mon- Fri.
World rankings: 2 michelin stars (2014), World no.42 (S.Pellegrino 2014), Restaurant of the year in Denmark (The Danish Dining Guide, 2013)
Menu: light lunch tasting menu (950DKK), wine pairing 750DKK