It is surprising how quick your mind adapts, and stops worrying about the potholes ahead of you or darting your eyes frantically to avoid traffic catastrophe. It all slowly blends into the backdrop of your mind, as you start to immerse in the smells, the colours, and sounds all around. This is what Vietnam is all about. There are few architectural wonders to distract your attention from what lies immediately around you – the people, the food and their way of life. As the old saying goes: as you walk and eat and travel, be where you are.

Day two in Hanoi begins with a smashing bowl of Pho Bo (beef noodle soup) and buffet breakfast at our hotel before a leisurely stroll through the streets and along the Eastern shore of Hoan Kiem Lake, enjoying the morning breeze before the afternoon swelter. A small detour is made across the red Huc Bridge onto the little lake-island, where the Temple of the Jade Mountain (Ngoc Son) lies. This spot is popular both for tourists and locals alike, both vying for the perfect photo shot. Simply people watching you will likely get glimpses everywhere of a complex picture of rapid urbanisation and material Westernisation among the affluent (wearing the latest fashion and flashing the latest SLR’s), which makes a jarring point alongside the elderly woman from the countryside making her daily voyage to sell her produce from baskets she balances on a bamboo yoke.

As the morning nip (the locals wear jackets in the morning) makes way for the afternoon heat, it is advisable to plan ahead for lunch and less intensive activities preferably where air-conditioning is involved, or at least get you out of the blistering sun. Anyone who has been to South East Asia will know what I mean. Grabbing a cyclo (see day 1 for some tips on getting around) is a good way to rest the feet and get a little shade, whilst taking in the 36 specialty streets of the Old quarter and get a real feel for the traffic chaos. Take note of the places you like (i.e. take photos of the addresses / signage, so you can return at leisure).

There is no shortage of French architecture – St Joseph’s cathedral, Hanoi Opera House – scattered around right alongside the less ostentatious Buddhist temples and pagodas. You will likely sight Dong Xuan market (I’ll revisit this on a later post), several museums to satisfy the history fanatic and even upmarket shopping if you wanted (beware though imported goods are much more expensive here due to import taxes).

I believe this was Gia Ngu street (*ahem as per the signs in my photo) – a true gem of a street, where locals get their fruit and grab a bite. Feel free to stumble the streets, and be amazed at the hidden gems you stumble across. I had my fair share of jackfruit here.

This was destined to be a day of up and down when it came to eating. Our lunch spot – Nhà Hàng Nam Phương, one of Hanoi’s high end dining restaurants – was really a battle of wins and losses. The green papaya with dried beef, though presented beautifully I did not appreciate a significant difference from the humble version on Bat Dan street presented to us on day one. The grilled pork ribs lacked the true smokiness of that you see at grubby road side barbeques. The soft shell crabs whilst moreish, were not as impressive (or flesh filled) as the ones I would have in due time in Saigon. Lotus and longan desserts fortunately were a simple but soothing way to finish.

I think when a kitchen branches out to do too many things, it tends to lose that expertise and proficiency at making what one makes best at say a street stall. I can’t say I can generalise to all high end restaurants in Vietnam (in fact I had a few inspiring exceptions), but many fell into this category of beautiful dining and just decent food.

A quick pit stop for dessert round two for some Xoi Kem – sweet sticky rice topped with vanilla ice cream and toasted coconut.

A few shots from the Museum of Vietnamese history. Excuse my pictures for being clearly skewed to the things I took interest in. Though there is evidence of attempts at making museums more accessible to Western tourists, by and large annotations are written in “Vietnamese” so it can at times be hard to fully appreciate the history / explanations behind the artefacts. Worthwhile peek and escape from the roasting heat nonetheless.

You might have noticed many places are quite literally named after whatever it is they serve (and sometimes the street or number of their address) – simple but effective ey? And street stalls are most definitely permanent members of the streetscape in Vietnam, with many having permanent signage and even a physical address. Bun thang Ba Duc is one of them. Like other street stalls, it serves only one item – Bun Thang (Vermicelli Soup with Chicken, Egg, Pork). The broth ladled straight from a huge bubbling pot is one that is unpretentious yet indescribably comforting. Free from MSG, you can taste the very sweetness from the hours of boiling, drawing out every last ounce of flavour from the bones. It is perfect for remedying any feeling of homesickness and yet I am paying no more than $2AUD for a bowl of this magic. This will be a common trend throughout Vietnam – where few places use MSG, and people continue to use old-school arduous techniques in their food.

After the pre-theatre “snack” I head off to Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre, putting on a world renowned show that has seen countless stages across the globe. Definitely worth a visit, though having also seen the re-invented version in Saigon (Golden Dragon Water Puppet Theatre), where there is a little more spark, splash and humour – I would personally recommend that one if you get a chance.

With its large turnover of Western diners and voluminous menu, you can’t help but doubt whether Madame Hien would stand up to the test. To my surprise however, the Vietnamese (with a minor contemporary take) cuisine remains at a high level. I thoroughly enjoyed their version of Bun Rieu (crab noodle soup) and a lighter version of Bun Bo Hue (beef noodle soup from Hue – this is different from Pho). I was however less persuaded by the stir fried dishes – this remained a dissuasion for me repeatedly throughout the trip. I blame my well-tuned and biased Cantonese palate for this.

Directory:

[Nhà Hàng Nam Phương]
19 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi

[Museum of Vietnamese history]
1 Phạm Ngũ Lão, Tràng Tiền, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi.

[Xoi Kem]
8 Hai Bà Trưng, Tràng Tiền, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi.
(corner of Hai Ba Trung and Phan Chu Trinh)

[Bun thang Ba Duc]
90 Cầu Gỗ, Hàng Bạc, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi.

[Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre]
57 Đinh Tiên Hoàng, Lý Thái Tổ, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi.
(Big multi-story building overlooking the lake, you can’t miss it.)

[Madame Hien]
15 Chân Cầm, Hàng Trống, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi.

For more travel posts click below:

I am officially overwhelmed with the number of posts I have to trawl through before being anywhere close to being up to date, not to mention the enormous amount of digital processing I have to do for my recent Vietnam foodie extravaganza. So to alleviate some of that pressure, and extract some of the foodie experiences from my shrivelled brain before it all evaporates, a “quick” series of posts to highlight (and I really mean just highlight) some of the events and venues I have thoroughly enjoyed. I will endeavour to chug out proper posts in due time.

We begin our brunch journey in Hawthorn at Le Flaneur. My fondest memory here lies with Le Flaneur’s deconstructed lemon tart, which I’ve mentioned previously…

“This may or may not be on the menu when you visit, but it wouldn’t hurt to call ahead to see if you can get this de-constructed lemon tart with raspberry meringue on the day. It is gorgeously sweet, buttery and by no means a light snack for brunch. A lighter option of apple with balsamic salad (available at the time), for me came as a prelude to the deconstructed tart”.

Although I have heard various mixed reviews at this French café, from the visits I have made it has successfully hit all the right notes. Whether it be the fried egg, apple salad, with balsamic dressing and spinach puree; or the Herb-sauteed mushroom & poached egg with black mushroom vinaigrette; or the Brioche with bacon and pineapple – there was always a running melody of uplifting acidity in the food with French notes and a touch of indulgence. Not to mention the hues of bright yellow with splashes of country French with Melbourne quirkiness in the space just makes brunch here that little bit special.

Heading out east to the very green suburb of Templestowe, Beasley’s teahouse is really a nursery come teahouse, first established as a nursery in 1976 with the tea house coming later in 1986, which still makes it a longstanding institute of the ‘burbs. So, naturally the setting is one of homely character and soothing persuasion. Tea and scones anyone? Your good ‘ol brunch offerings are available here 7 days a week, and they make a mean poached egg with ample drool worthy ooze. 

Adjoining a bicycle shop – St Ali’s new northern sister – St Ali North definitely brings a laid-back air with ample space both inside and out. Ironically the crowds it draws in can make it a little painful to get a table particularly on weekends or holidays, with people spilling onto the sidewalk, the surrounding park benches, even the windowsills are utilised as dining spots. No doubt they are drawn by St Ali’s reputation and most certainly make return trips after they’ve tried the gorgeous food. Rabbit rillettes, Royale wagyu burger, pan fried stone fruit with brioche all passed the test with flying colours. The corn fritters (My Mexican Cousin) made famous in the south (aka St Ali) however failed to impress. It simply lacked a little extra oomph of juice, spice and surprise to make it that little bit more memorable. Maybe I am just getting bored of corn fritters – we have too many of them around Melbourne.

On that point of brunch-time fritters, the pea and haloumi fritters at Jackson Dodds was a totally different kettle of fish. Firstly they used “peas”, not corn. Second, those green little monsters were practically bursting out of the hot, crispy fritter, interspersed by generous pockets of haloumi – absolutely amazing. I cannot believe I was not aware of their existence prior to this. Sure Jackson Dodds also have corn fritters, which in their own right are decent, but be sure to sample the various rotating interpretations with zucchini, parsnip & corn. This place is now one of my favourite haunts, so go check it out!

That is all folks, for now… stay tuned for much more epic recaps.

[Le Flaneur]
Where: 5 Church St, Hawthorn
Contact: 03 9853 8587
When: breakfast / lunch 7 days.

[Beasley's teahouse]
Where: 196 Warrandyte Rd, Warrandyte
Contact: 03 9844 1777

[Jackson Dodds]
Where: 611 Gilbert St, Preston
Contact: 03 9471 1900

[St Ali North]
Where: 815 Nicholson St, Carlton North
Contact: 03 9686 2990

For more brunch spots check out my Brunch Map of Melbourne:

There will be no jabber about Vietnam’s history, the geography or etymology from here. You will get all of that when you go to Vietnam or from Wikipedia if need be, and you certainly don’t need to hear it through me. Rather I’ll lead you through my experiences and encounters that will hopefully help make at least one other person’s trip to Vietnam that little bit better. Here we go…

Where shall I start? I shall start from the moment I hop off the plane at Hanoi just after midday. It is the raw heat and humidity (like most other South East Asian country) that first hits you right on the face. For a few days to come the sky remained grey, dreary and as though it would open on us at any moment. In fact I had arrived just at the brink of the rainy season (May – September), so this was to be expected. But in all truth it hardly rained in the first week, and only rained briefly in the early afternoons when I had reached Saigon.

The second thing that hits you will be the chaotic roads bustling with the honks of motorbikes, weaving traffic, and fearless pedestrians. “Fearless” is something you learn quickly when you are forced to cross without true pedestrian crossings in a manner I call a walk of faith where you step onto the road, and continue to walk through oncoming traffic and watch as the traffic seamlessly weaves around you. Hanoi, especially within the old quarter, is notorious for its narrow roads and pedestrian strips. It is not uncommon to see scooters parked up on the pavement, alongside road-side stalls with their gaggle of diners parked on tiny fluoro chairs (usually blue or red). So really you walk on the roads anyway.

Karaoke is big in Vietnam.

Selling tattslotto…

I stayed smack bang in the old quarter of Hanoi. Whilst the hotels here tend to be smaller and more expensive, nothing compares to being right at the centre of where everything happens. Jammed into its 36 streets are a mecca for food, bars, merchants and beautiful old colonial houses, which makes it a city full of character. People say Hoi An is the most beautiful old town in Vietnam, but I dare say it lacks the personality and charm that Hanoi does when you start exploring its nooks and crannies.

First stop to fill the tummy: a “random” shop front near our hotel – Ban Buon Banh Bot Loc. With a bit of pointing and gesturing we have served to us Banh bot loc (Vietnamese Clear Shrimp and Pork Dumplings) and Nom bo kho (green payaya salad with dried beef). This would be a good start to the eating extravaganza – light, fragrant, and enough tang to awaken the slumbering taste buds. Long haul overnight flights are your appetites’ worst enemy. The nuoc mam was well balanced, so another tick.

A massage after a snack anyone? SF Spa would be stop two. There are no pictures here (*ahem for obvious reasons). It is a little on the “pricier” side, but certainly one of the swankier places in town. By pricy I mean for local standards. At approx. 400,000VND ($20AUD) for a 60 minute massage it is still far cheaper than anything at home. There are plenty of options around, anything from 150,000VND upwards. I suggest giving Vietnamese massage a go – a “stretching massage [that] stimulates the digestive organs, energizes the body and reduces inflammations”.

After some good digestive tract encouragement, it was time for some banh cuon (thin Rice Rolls Filled with Ground Pork and Wood ear Mushrooms) at Banh Cuon Gia Truyen, which is so conveniently located one “small” block eastward. In the short few days in Hanoi, this place would easily rank as AAR’s favourite place for a snack in Hanoi.

The streets of Hanoi are like free cooking shows, as most vendors (even if they have storefronts) generally have their working “kitchen” out front. The lady working the steamer at Gia Truyen has been doing this for some 20 years. She makes the most beautifully paper thin, silky steamed rice rolls that are skilfully peel off the steamer without piercing the skin, plomped down on a well-oiled plate to be rolled with juicy ground pork stir-fried with wood ear mushrooms. Fried shallots are heaped on, before a garnish of coriander. Banh Cuon is usually served alongside Cha (slices of minced pork rolls), but I find they fill me up too much so I rarely order it. Plus the drawcard here is really the banh cuon! I shall digress for a minute. Like many developing Asian countries, it is rare to find anything but pork lard being used as the “cooking oil”. In my opinion it is this that makes everything taste amazing, and there is no avoiding it. *ahem just for a holiday it is ok!*

On a later date, whilst on a guided street food tour of Hanoi, we try banh cuon with rice paddy beetle oil. It adds a potent fragrance and attitude to the dipping sauce (i.e. the nuoc mam). It is not for the faint hearted…

Final stop for the day. It would have been around 8.30pm when I stumbled out of the hotel and around the corner to Cha Ca Va long for their infamous Cha Ca (see here for a nice explanation). The white fleshed fish (not sure which) has been marinated in turmeric, and is fired up tableside with a generous handful of dill and green onions, with vermicelli rice noodles, peanuts, herbs, fish sauce and fermented shrimp paste to accompany. It is quite heavy with oil, and at 100,000 VND, I personally found it just ok. Maybe it was the time of day, or that I had had too much to eat already but “over-hyped” would be the word I’d use to describe it. Certainly tasty fish, but nothing amazing.

Not bad effort for the first day with jet lag hey?

What I found on my trip was that the places with the most people generally had the best food, and they are usually the on-street stalls. No doubt many local places have become increasingly touristy with online / print media exposure, and whilst there is a good number that retain the quality and integrity of their food, I suspect there will be many changes to come in the years to come whether for good or bad. I sure hope that next time I return that I can still return to the same places and have the same things made exactly the way it has been for generations. It would be a pity to lose that.

A few tips to help you get around:

• Walking. The old quarter is small enough that walking is usually the easiest way to get around. Road signs are generally well placed and most stores have their full address printed on their signage, so if you’re lost just look up.
• Taxi. They are super cheap. Flag fall is around 10,000VND (50c AUD), then meter climbs up at a snails pace thereafter. Hanoi is small enough that most attractions will rarely cost you more than $2-3 AUD. Warning: there are plenty of dodgy taxi’s out there (where the meter jumps in astronomical amounts), so please stick with the large taxi companies: taxi-group / Mai Linh Taxi. Your hotels will be able to point out which ones are reliable.
• Cyclos. These are plentiful, and well maintained in Hanoi, but much more expensive and slower than taxis. Worthwhile going for a city tour once (I vaguely remember we paid around 200,000VND ($10AUD) for a 60minute ride. I still think we got it expensive and should have haggled more.

Directory:

• Hotel: [Maison D'Hanoi Boutique Hotel]
  49 Lãn Ông
  Hàng Đào, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi
• [Ban Buon Banh Bot Loc]
  43 Bat Dan
  Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi.
• Massage: [SF Spa]
  30 Cửa Đông
  Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi.
• [Banh Cuon Gia Truyen]
  14 Hàng Gà
  Hàng Bồ, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi
• [Cha Ca Va long]
  14 Chả Cá
  Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi

Still hungry for travel posts?

Over the past few years there has been much change in the menu and direction at Circa. Whilst I cannot say I have witnessed the changes in person, I have seen it through the eyes of other bloggers. The current décor is well pared back, with an elegant colour scheme of muted white, cream, black and timber. There are no white sheets in sight to add to its carbon footprint. The menu by Paul Wilson & Jake Nicolson has steered away from its origins, focusing more on Asian contemporary fusion cuisine that sprawls across several menu categories that is largely designed for sharing – yakitori, global street food, hot+cold+spicy, BBQ + feasting + mains, and desserts.

*Entrees / share plates*

Oysters with native lime mignonette – jedd’s pacific oyster.

Fremantle Octopus with native desert lime caramel.

Ocean trout tartare with Yarra Valley caviar, snapper + taro chips

Crispy lamb ribs with Sichuan eggplant san choi bao

LA style Korean inspired wagyu taco + Napa cabbage slaw

Rice cracker crusted spicy calamari with seaweed aioli

Dancing crispy shiso shrimp with green tea and sesame aioli

Much of the fun and excitement of dining at Circa lies in this part of the menu. Not only are the flavours punchy and moreish, there is an element of tactile stimulation requiring a bit of hand to mouth manoeuvres.

The juicy bites of soft and slightly sweet Fremantle octopus for example is eaten straight off the wooden sticks. While the plump shrimps wrapped in delicately paper thin golden pastry has to be dis-impaled with your fingers and dipped into the divine green tea & sesame aioli. I cannot say how much I adored those shrimps. If not for ordering half the menu already I would have gone for seconds and maybe even thirds.

Despite deceptively appearing so elegant on the plates, both the wagyu taco and lamb rib san choi bao requires you to get your hand a little messy, as both are full of juice that just uncontrollably oozes out. There is good heat (i.e. spice) in the kim chi, and there is nice balance of lightness in the san choi bao.

When it came to the ocean trout tartare, I was already won over when I saw taro chips. If you have never had taro then you are losing out. It works with just about anything – in spring rolls, in desserts, on their own – and of course in this case it brings a bit of crunch and earthiness alongside the tartare and caviar. Love it.

Finally, I had heard much acclaim for the crusted spicy calamari, and they did not disappoint. Give them a try and you won’t be able to stop.

*Mains*

McIvor Farm Berkshire suckling pig with mango sweet’n'sour, golden beetroot + fresh lychees

Robata BBQ O’Connors grass fed sirloin, with kimchi butter, exotic mushrooms + fried bread.

WA Patagonian toothfish, sweet miso + black garlic

These were quality mains with good crackling, beautiful charring with fine use of caramelised mushrooms and onions, and even perfectly cooked fish. But there just seems to lack that little X-factor that would bring silence to the table. After all my foodie adventures, no matter how good the restaurant is, there are few and far between that are able to preserve that very high level of inspiration, creativity and sensory impact of entrees onto the mains that follow. Circa comes close to escaping this notion, but not quite.

*Puddings + Desserts*

Native lemon aspen pavlova with hibiscus ripple ice cream

Salted caramel delice with boysenberry sorbet and macadamia crumble

By this time, we (including me) were full to the brim. I can’t say I remember much detail from the sweet section *cough, food coma*. Both desserts were notably lighter, and more floral than I would usually like (or choose in a sane state of mind for that matter). P.S. nothing further need be said, when I say the dessert selection here has been much applauded by Momo-and-Coco.

Rating: Yummy+2. Circa is one of the few fusion-Asian cuisines in Melbourne that I have thoroughly enjoyed. The food is creative, dotted with fun and vibrancy and most certainly swoon worthy.

Whilst personally I would like the mains turned a notch up, there is more than enough to tantalise and satisfy from the less formal yakitori / global street food / hot+cold+spicy sections of the menu. Overall there is little to fault here and definitely a keeper.

[Circa, The Prince]
Where: 2 Acland St, St Kilda (ground floor The Prince Hotel)
Contact: 03 9536 1122

P.S. Circa’s pop up Yakitori bar (for the month of April 2013 only) will feature in the newly renovated bar attached to Circa proper. See Circa’s bar menu & Gastrology for more information.

For more places around St Kilda…

In recent weeks passed on one summery evening, I was invited along to the newly revamped Art Centre’s Hamer Hall to dine at Sakè Restaurant and Bar, marking its arrival from Sydney and Brisbane. Being always somewhat of a traditionalist when it comes to food, with “fusion” comes a degree of scepticism and hesitation. Sure, the view across Southbank is breathtaking and the interior design is impeccably stunning, with soft earthy tones and floral-oriental notes speckled throughout a lofty almost outdoorsy-feel space, leaving diners with a buoyant mood. But, is the food carried to a corresponding level? We shall see.

Kingfish Jalapeno, Hiramasa Kingfish, yuzu soy, jalapeno and coriander.

Salmon tataki jalapeno dressing.

Panko fried rice balls, soy bean, bamboo and shitake mushroom rice balls.

Toothfish lettuce cups, grilled miso-marinated Patagonian toothfish in lettuce cups.

Wagyu teriyaki, 7+ Wagyu beef, served on sautéed shitake and buckwheat with yakiniku sauce.

Shrimp tempura, creamy spicy sauce, yuzu dressed salad.

Buttermilk pannacotta, passionfruit coulis.

The night began with sashimi and tataki reinvented with a fairly light, well balanced jalopeno dressing that is enough to kick start the taste buds with a tiny kick of heat. The toothfish is a must try – it is a classic success story of an ugly fish dolled up to fit on a classy plate. It is juicy, fragrant with miso, but painfully bite sized though. The use of yuzu in several dishes is well received, bringing lively floral-citrus notes, though arguably underused in the heavier dishes to come.

From the heavier parts of the menu, the wagyu certainly cannot be faulted with a scrumptious buckwheat salad. But my utter approval stops here. The carb-heavy rice balls and heavily battered shrimp tempura (contrary to a true light tempura batter), though more-ish, falls too far into casual arena and is likely to leave one in a postprandial lethargic state. Failed attempt – no; moreish – yes; but certainly out of line with the lighter tones I love about Japanese cuisine.

The final sweet course, left me somewhat uninspired, craving for something more Japanese to finish the meal.

Rating: Yummy+1. The fusion fare offered at Sake provides promise, with glimpses of excellence, simplicity and elegance with a Japanese sake list that is incredibly charming. There are however, spells of controversy that for me stray too far from its Japanese heritage. When I eat Japanese, I *cough* expect red bean and green tea… but that’s just me.

[Sake Restaurant & Bar]
Where:     Hamer Hall, Arts Centre Melbourne, 100 St Kilda Rd.
Contact: 03 8687 0775

[I dined courtesy of Sake Restaurant and Hot House Media & Events]

Some upcoming events at Sake for those interested:

The Famous Spiegeltent (9 March) a Sushi Ragamuffin Master Class with Shaun Presland.

Sake South Dinner (21 March) – a sensorial journey, drawing inspiration from the South of Japan… bringing together sake and other Japanese beverages matched with five courses.

Whilst the majestic scenery, bustling city life can leave the first timer in awe, for me it was the serene culture outside of Tokyo with its accompanying perfectionistic perseverance over food that has left the strongest impression on me. With that in mind I shall unveil one of my most memorable meals in the heart of the old capital Nara (predating Kyoto).

A side note. Don’t be afraid to travel outside the big bustling cities, to explore the smaller less well-trodden places around Japan. It is here where you will really experience Japan. And public transport will get you everywhere. If you find you need some guidance, and are short on money, there are many Good Samaritan guide clubs across Japan, that offers volunteer tour guide services. Not only is it free, it is flexible as to what things you would like to see. All you pay for is the guides’ travel costs and meals. Occasionally the guides may be less experienced, but generally they are older-retired local residents or younger art-history students whom are quite knowledgeable. I enlisted a guide from Nara Guide Club for my day in Nara.

*Click to scroll down to: Naramachi, Tofu-An, Nara Park, Mos Burger.

In the early mist of dawn, we take a short train ride from Kyoto to Nara. Our guide takes us (as requested by me) for a morning stroll of Naramachi (old town). Though many places were closed over the winter season, the cobble streets lined with old historic buildings and merchant shops, many dating back to the 19^th century is photographic heaven. The temples / shrines date back further to the 8th century – Gangoji temple being one of these.

And, now for our long awaited lunch at Tofu-an.

In Japan, tofu is regarded highly and appears frequently on traditional kaiseki (degustation) meals. I would not be exaggerating when I say some of the highest quality tofu I have ever had, was during this trip in Japan split between Kyoto and Nara. There is just this incredible simplicity and delicate earthiness, with a whisper of tradition and devotion shining through, that makes it so memorable.

I was told there has long been dispute between Nara and Kyoto for the best tofu, and now I can understand why. If you have time, you can decide for yourself which one is better.

The winter menu with English translations. Yay, for not needing to google-translate for once.

[Courses 1, 2, 3, 5, 4 from top down]

Yudofu (course 4) heating up right in front of us…. mmm

Course 7

After much dining in excess in the past week through Tokyo and Kyoto, the pared back minimalism of this tofu inspired menu was a welcome respite. The tofu here was absolutely divine, whether it is the smooth, velvety pot of silken tofu boiled in soy milk (yudofu), or the very creamy Oboro Tofu (supposedly made on the spot in small quantities), or the golden cubes of tofu kakiage smeared with a delectable miso paste.

This place comes highly recommended by people before me, and I too give it a thumbs up.

[奈良町豆腐庵こんどう - TOFU-AN KONDOU]

Where: 日本, 〒630-8334 奈良県奈良市西新屋町44. It isn’t the easiest place to find, so having GPS might be helpful. P.S. it’s near “Koshin-do” (monkey shrine).
Contact: 0742-26-4694
Details: 13 course Tofu Kannou Course 2000 yen (lunch). You will have to make reservations beforehand, as it is a small place. I actually had my volunteer-guide organise it for us. Generally lunch menus are heavily discounted, so if you’re on a budget but still want to try high-end food, check them out at lunch.

A short stop after lunch at a sake merchant for some sake tasting… mmm.

We now head eastward to Nara Park, which is home to one of Japan’s most famous temple Todaiji (Great Eastern Temple). The main hall is the world’s largest wooden building, and houses Japan’s largest bronze statue of Buddha. The surrounding parkland is alive with many free roaming sika deer. Some loose change will get you some sika senbei (crackers) to feed them. Be wary, though cute they can be hungry and relentless…

Note: Set aside at least most of the day to explore Nara Parks. There is plenty to see.

After quite a long day of walking around Nara, a quick snack before dinner is required. Mos Burgers anyone? Wish it was so easy to get awesome snacks in Melbourne…

And never is there too much gelati… mmmm.

Next stop: Venice.

[Anada] visit 1 & 2.
Dish: Ottway Rangers (Vic) pork belly with fennel seed & smoky aubergine
Pork belly category: crispy & brittle

“… interchanging layers of succulent fat infiltrated meat and lean meat that was fall-off-the-bone-tender… crackling was simply heavenly – golden brown and super crispy…”

Portello Rosso also makes a decent Spanish rendition.

[Taxi Dining Room]
Dish: Sticky pork & red chilli dressing
Pork belly category: Sticky & sweet

“…this small cube of golden caramelised pork belly was a little sticky and sweet, bursting with pork juice, and very lightly spiced.”

[Earl canteen]

Dish: Pork belly Baguette
Pork belly category: Crispy & sandwich

“…skin on the Otway pork was gorgeously crispy with haphazardly shredded pieces of tender meat. There were paper-thin slices of apple, green coleslaw of cabbage and fennel and a bit of wilted silverbeet…”

[Maha bar & grill]
Dish: Tunisian brik bangalow pork belly, pork popcorn, Lebanese kimchi, onion mayo
Pork belly category: crispy & pastry wrapped

“…this dark plate serves up a well caramelised pork belly, wrapped in a deep fried paper-thin pastry. There is a strange contrast between the Lebanese kimchi (which is hardly spicy) and moreish pork popcorn.”

[Dead Mean Espresso]
Dish: BLT
Pork belly category: crispy & sandwich

“Sandwiched between a moist but crisp buttery brioche, smeared with a zingy paste of spinach, the crackled pork belly was super crispy, juicy, and absolutely delish. A small salad and tangy salsa was provided to help cut through…”

[AkaChoChin]
Dish: Buta Kakuni pork belly simmered in sweet soy sauce
Pork belly category: moist & sweet

[I-spicy] (hawthorn) 

Dish: Crispy pork with red curry
Pork belly category: crispy & spicy

“…the crackle of skin, succulence of pork belly flesh, and chilli heat of curry are to die for.”

[Davids restaurant]
Dish: country comfort sticky pork belly 
Pork belly category: moist & sticky

“…with chat potatoes [this sticky pork belly is] rustic yet indulgent and very satisfying – “country comfort” indeed.”

Have I missed any of your favourites, that you might want me to try? Please let me know!!!

With hardly a living soul walking along the yarra in the extreme heat of 40 degrees, I was surprised we chose such a day for my first visit to Rockpool. The interior is in simple words – very woody. There are much timber, leather and brown earthy tones throughout, and plenty of middle aged executives having an extended lunch (on that day), which left an impression that crosses between boardroom uptight and laidback vibe of a Gentleman’s club. Still classy though. =)

Warm salad of Wood fire grilled Quail with smoked tomatoes and black olives. There isn’t much to complain here. The flesh is moist with a tender firmness. The lightly charred skin and oil based sauce offers the right balance of seasoning, and lip-licking flavours. Licks of acidity (tomato) and scattered cuts of creamy earth (olive) help keep things rounded. There wasn’t much in the way of “salad” if one was to nit-pick.

Hand cut linguini with spanner crab and spicy prawn oil. I was much less impressed by this pasta dish, which was over-cooked leaving no evidence of al-dente to be found on each bite. I wouldn’t for a minute doubt the quality of the produce or even the mildly spicy but punchy flavours presented here, but feel let down by the pasta for a plate that costs $32.

I would be inclined to suggest trying the pasta at Neil Perry’s new child Rosetta, where there is a dedicated pasta chef, but I have yet to try it myself. Anyone been and had good experience?

Cape Grim Dry aged 36 month old grass fed – Rib-Eye on the bone 350g 45 days. At $60 a pop (or a slab rather), I had very high expectations for this steak. Was I impressed? And did I feel it deserved the price tag? Yes and no.

Sure there is a certain disbelief when all you get on your plate is literally your steak and a choice of condiment sauce. But, when what you get is a perfectly seared steak to pink perfection, and is in every way enjoyable – moist, unctuous, a little nutty in flavour, with a smoky aroma that wraps the perfectly browned crust – I think this fact is quickly forgiven.

It is simple and indulgent. Simple would probably be the last word one would use for a steak, but the minimalism and perfection presented without much distraction really deserves these oxymoron labels. I probably would not be having a steak here every week, but once in a while for a bit of indulgence.

Sides
Pumpkin and sweet potato with burnt butter and garlic yoghurt
Radicchio, cos and endive salad with palm sugar vinaigrette

Rating: Yummy+1.5. Though there certainly have been mixed reviews with some criticism for Rockpool’s consistency, on my visit the steaks were immaculately brilliant (so far 1 out of 1, *ahem). The produce is beautiful, undeniably. But price is probably the main rate limiting factor for frequent return visits.

P.S. I shall have to return for dessert options also next time. I would not be blaming you if you are thinking I have gone crazy. A meal without dessert…

[Rockpool bar and grill, Melbourne]
Where: Crown Casino, Whiteman St, Southbank.
Contact: 03 8648 1900

For more reads on dinners at Crown…