French on Collins part 1 of 2, Mr Mason
I was invited to Mr Mason a while-while back to try out a selection of their French inspired menu. The restaurant features several partitions of space – bar, dining, outdoor terrace – finished in a beautiful deep mahogany. It is warm but relaxed with a jazzy vibe.
Perusing the menu, one’s eyes were immediately drawn to the sweet section featuring soufflé and crème brulee at the time, both being my fetish favourites. Of course I had the dilemma of choosing the designated 2 courses on the house from the menu for each person … so choosing wisely.
A chunky terrine of confit duck, veal and pistachio, alongside a sweet balsamic red onion relish and cornichons.
New season asparagus, dribbled over with truffled poached egg and a subtle thyme hollandaise – creamy, earthy and freshly crisp.
The roasted lamb rump retained a nice pink hue, and nicely caramelised. Braised lettuce, brussels, velvety potato dumplings provided a nice balance, though overly heady on the bacon lardons.
A warming – edging on an autumn rather than summer menu – dish of moist slow cooked chicken, with a hearty gravy, which was so so moreish. Baby summer vegetables, thyme and creamy mash on the side.
Chocolate soufflé, vanilla bean ice cream – the molten centre and crisp exterior shell was a highlight deserving mention. What it lacked in complexity it compensated with simple chocolate decadence. One can pass on the ice cream – too subtle in this pairing.
The blood-tinged crème brulee though highly enjoyable, was almost cripplingly too filled with raspberries and blueberries, leaving little arena for the custard to shine through. That being said, the raspberry was probably intended as the protagonist, but when it comes to crème brulee’s I can be bit of a purist.
Rating: Yummy+1. Classic French which is very easy on the palate, with a nice selection of wines to complement. Chocolate soufflé a recommended order, which I trust is still on the menu.
Where: 530 Collins St, Melb CBD
(The address is officially on Collins St, but entry is easier to find via the rear on Little Collins)
Contact: 03 9614 4500
Other French restaurants I’ve reviewed >>> click here.
[I dined courtesy of Mr Mason and The Publican Group]